Chris Tett talks about multi-country tourism and how working together will help everyone in the region.
Chris Tett is sitting at the Bushtracks station in Livingstone; heavy bangs, welding noises and the sounds of grinding metal punctuate his conversation.
‘My locomotive is lying on its side,’ he says. ‘They’re fixing it.’
Fixing an old steam locomotive is an intense business, it turns out.
Chris is the founder and managing director of Bushtracks Africa, which among other things runs the Royal Livingstone Express out of Zambia and Bushtracks Express out of Zimbabwe.
These are luxurious historic trains that journey to Victoria Falls Bridge, from where the view of the sunset astounds guests before a leisurely dinner – five courses on Royal Livingstone, seven on Bushtracks.
They’re very smart affairs. And delicious, too.
He is also one of the founders of Africa’s Eden, driven by his vision of cross-border collaboration and multi-country tourism that offers the best of all worlds.
We’re here to talk about that vision; we also talk about tourism, the bush, conservation, community, culture, even schooldays – it’s a wide-ranging conversation.
Not only is he an advocate of multi-country tourism, he practices it, too. Bushtracks Africa was started in Livingstone on St Patrick’s Day in 1997. Since then, it has expanded into Zimbabwe, Botswana and even South Africa.
Cross-border Collaboration
‘Multi-country tourism is so important,’ he says.
Indeed, there is talk of making the Africa’s Eden region – essentially KAZA, the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area – a single visa destination. This means visitors could pass through a single border post on arrival and then cross unhindered from country to country during their stay.
‘The asset is Victoria Falls,’ says Chris. ‘It’s what draws everyone here. I feel that in full flood it’s better to view the falls from the Zambian side than it is from the Zimbabwean side. It’s close up, and you get these massive updrafts, and suddenly you get this beautiful picture of the falls, and then you’re back in the spray. Whereas if you go to the Zimbabwean side, it’s set further back and more susceptible to your view being obstructed by the spray.’
There’s also Knife Edge Bridge, which is constantly shaking. It has a unique view back along Rainbow Falls, and you can clearly see Danger Point and the sheer drop below it.
‘It’s just incredible. The power and the force. But obviously, when the river goes down, viewing the falls is better from the Zimbabwean side unless you journey to Livingstone Island.’
Livingstone’s got just as much to offer as Victoria Falls, if not more. ‘This is why I’m so keen on Africa’s Eden, and in particular the KAZA approach. I think, as a tourist destination, that Victoria Falls should be open. We should be able to walk freely from Livingstone to the Zimbabwe side and back again.’
The two destinations should not market themselves in isolation, Chris says.
It would stop any kind of competition and limitation. ‘It would spread the benefits, really. We’re up against so many other destinations, why not combine our resources in Zambia and Zimbabwe, Livingstone and Vic Falls and go out to the market because we’re not really competing Livingstone versus Vic Falls.’
Though he concedes there is a bit of competition, which is ‘healthy’.
‘But if we combined our resources we would stand a much better chance against other destinations, such as Mauritius. I think we’d just push our numbers up. I feel it’s an underutilised resource.’
He gives a recent example: flying from Johannesburg to Livingstone, there were only 30 passengers, 24 in a group Bushtracks was collecting. The plane was more than two-thirds empty, which is unprofitable to run.
But this is a beautiful time of year to visit, particularly if you’re a birder. Sure, it’s the green season and it’s more difficult to see wildlife, but it is still there.
‘I took my family camping in January in Chobe recently and we ticked all the boxes … we saw all the game that we usually see in July and August.’
Livingstone’s Gifts
‘There are tremendous assets in Zambia that are underutilised.’ Chris talks about Mukuni village, which offers a glimpse into the daily life and traditions of the local Mukuni Leya people. ‘Mukuni is an 800-year-old village. It’s the oldest village around here, with a tremendous history and a highly active chief.
‘From a cultural perspective, you can gain so much more from getting a bigger picture. And that’s what Livingstone has to offer. We offer a village tour in Zimbabwe and some would say it’s just as good, but it doesn’t have an 800-year history.’
He points out that there are many cultures in Zambia to explore – there are 72 dialects and different tribes, whereas Zimbabwe is dominated by far fewer.
‘And as I said, we’ve got the Victoria Falls. It’s owned by two countries. Let’s maximise that. When it’s dry, let’s get everyone to go to Zimbabwe. Let’s show them the best part of the falls in Zimbabwe. And when it is pumping full, let’s show them the Zambian side.’
That kind of idea would be spread across Botswana and Namibia.
A New Safari Hub
He has a vision to turn the standard Southern African safari on its head. Many people go to South Africa, and then are offered a couple of nights in Victoria Falls as an add-on.
‘But there’s so much to offer here, why should we be flying to Johannesburg as a gateway when you could fly into Victoria Falls or Kasane or Livingstone (though its airport has been left a little behind). And we have Cape Town as an add-on.’
The area would make an incredible hub. Chris ticks off the attractions:
‘There are these incredible wildlife areas; if you want to see the bush in its untouched, natural format, it’s here. We’re sitting in the middle of one of the most biodiverse conservation areas in the world.’
And there are all the activities as well: cultural, boating, adrenaline, the falls… There is the full range of camps and lodges, from rustic to very smart.
‘We’ve got it all. That’s my vision: to see the Victoria Falls region as the new hub of safaris.’
The Perfect Livingstone Weekend
Chris’s itinerary: ‘I always feel that going on a cruise on the Zambezi sets the tone. Particularly the river safari type cruise. Smaller, unique boats, exploring the islands, seeing the most incredible sunsets, the birds, the crocodiles, the hippos, sometimes the elephants.
‘Then, if you are into your adrenaline, you can’t beat rafting down the Zambezi. It’s one of the best rivers to raft in the world. Even if you do a half day, you’ll be exhausted and excited about it and you probably won’t want to do anything else.
‘And then, go out to Livingstone Island for lunch. I would then recommend, if you like to go fishing, get fishing, or if you want more adrenaline go bungee jump or gorge swinging. But then I would say that you definitely want to end with a trip to Livingstone Island just to view the falls from the edge in the middle of it. That’s life changing (especially if you’re in the Devil’s Pool).
‘If you can, view the falls from a helicopter, or if you’re more adventurous, a microlight.’
‘One night Dinner on the train. It is an unforgettable event and superbly photographic as well as the most romantic thing you can do to end or start your safari.’
What Are You Waiting For
The time to book a trip to Livingstone and the Victoria Falls region is now.
