Across Africa’s Eden, certain wildlife destinations are regarded as “must-see”. When safari newbies first consider where to go, places like Etosha National Park, the Okavango Delta, South Luangwa and Hwange National Park are common suggestions – and rightly so. Each of these off the beaten track destinations became popular for a reason, be it the Big 5, the range of accommodation or the park’s ease of access.
As writer Brian Jackman quipped, “Everything in Africa bites, but the safari bug is worst of all.“ Consequently, for those who return to Africa for the second, third or tenth time, the urge soon arises to broaden their horizons and seek out some of the lesser-known patches of wilderness mentioned in hushed tones as the embers dimmed in the campfire.
So, for seasoned safari veterans who’ve been there, done that and got the t-shirt, here’s a reminder that there is still much to discover in Southern Africa if you’re willing to meander off the beaten track. Armed with a voracious travel appetite, we hope this article will go some way to ensure your wanderlust is suitably nourished.
If Moremi and Chobe are ticked off your travel list, it’s time to look further. To that end, the two Botswana destinations we’ve chosen are known for their arid climates and sparse vegetation. Every Africa buff worth their biltong spice will have read Mark & Delia Owen’s timeless classic, “Cry of the Kalahari“. The authors wrote at length about their isolation in Deception Valley within the vast Central Kalahari Game Reserve. This sought-after characteristic for the aficionado persists today, with only a handful of camps providing accommodation. The park brims with wildlife and is magically transformed into flower-cloaked meadows after the rains.
Immediately to the west, covering 30000 sq. km (11600 sq. mi), lies one of the earth’s largest salt pans – Makgaidkgadi. Northwest of that, you’ll find the smaller but equally fascinating Nxai Pans National Park. Each of these areas hosts an annual zebra migration, where well over 45000 of these photogenic “convict donkeys” time their arrival to enjoy the lush grasslands after the rains. Needless to say, this means predators abound too. But, beyond the big game, the area has a wealth of unique fauna and flora, along with relics of prehistoric man that literally ooze from the earth.
With a relatively tiny population thinly spread over its 824000 sq. km (318000 sq. mi) surface, Namibia naturally has quite a few off the beaten track destinations that are seldom visited for no other reason than their extreme remoteness.
Firstly we have Kaudum National Park bordering Botswana at the gateway to the Zambezi Region and visited by less than 3000 guests annually. This is the place for those who wish to avoid people in favour of wildlife. However, what it lacks in humans is made up for in predators, with the park regarded as a stronghold for wild dogs and reporting regular sightings of all the big cats.
Travelling northeast from Windhoek, almost as far as you can go without leaving Namibia, is the Mudumu National Park. Lying within the diamond-shaped wedge of eastern Zambezi, the park plays numerous important roles in balancing the rights of people and wildlife in an impoverished region and creating a vital wildlife corridor between neighbouring Botswana and Angola. Historically, there was heavy poaching in the area, so some of the wildlife remains skittish – in a sense, making every sighting all the more rewarding. Unless you’re flying into one of the lodges, visitors must be well-equipped and experienced to reach the park, even by 4×4 vehicle.
Over in Zambia, intrepid travellers who’ve grown tired of the crowds around the east African migration can treat themselves to the sight of the largest mammalian migration of them all. From October to December, an estimated 8 million straw-coloured fruit bats descend for a feast of epic proportions. Kasanka National Park is relatively small, and all tourism proceeds are ploughed back into conservation and community initiatives – adding a feel-good factor to the visit. Keen birders should visit from November to April (the Emerald Season), when visiting migrant species swell the checklist to over 470 species.
Rising from the ashes of its near-demise, Liuwa Plains National Park is fast being restored to the status intended when King Lewanika set it aside for conservation in the late 19th century. After a decades-long absence, large herds of wildebeest have resumed what is recognised as the second-largest migration of their kind. The lack of prey meant predators were scarce; only one lioness was resident when the park management was transformed by a public-private partnership in 2003. Today, even highly endangered wild dogs have re-established their presence – and we feel sure it won’t take long before word of its resurrection (and development) follows. Get there first for bragging rights.
Finally, we head to Zimbabwe, where though the national parks mentioned have been around for years, some receive notably fewer visitors than the popular Hwange and Mana Pools. Gonarezhou in the country’s far southeast was long neglected after war, and poaching decimated local wildlife. Now, thanks to an amazing public-private partnership, Zimbabwe’s second-largest national park is steadily being restored to its former glory yet still off the beaten track.
Adding to Gonarezhou’s allure is that it forms part of the largest contiguous conservation area on the continent, by way of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, which allows wildlife to roam freely between equally massive national parks in neighbouring Mozambique and South Africa. This is definitely a place to visit before its proximity to neighbouring states has everyone clamouring to get there. And to complete our list: despite Matusadona National Park being one of the few in Zimbabwe to boast the Big 5, it is one of the least visited due to the fact that it is not easily accessible by road. The park is located in the northern part of the country, just south of Lake Kariba, so combining this with a houseboat holiday is an added attraction.
With ever-more public and private land coming under conservation, the area is bound to continue offering everyone, from the most tentative novice to the most seriously addicted safariphiles, a new vista, species or lodge to visit. If you need help planning your trip to Southern Africa, contact your local Africa’s Eden tour operator to design your ideal safari expedition.
